The promise of animal cruelty-free manufacturers?
Driven by the trend towards a lifestyle that bans all animal products, manufacturers of attractiveness products in turn promise this label.
However, regarding image, the advantage is that: vegan influencers - Youtube writers and consumers - are relaying the information, offering a growing impact on this market. Other manufacturers whose advertising is aimed at Generation Y, such as Urban Decay, have also promoted a number of their vegan formulas.
Consequence on communication?
Not simply: it is nowadays quite difficult to understand whether or not a skincare or make-up product contains compounds of animal origin. In Europe, the sector avoids them as much as possible, due to the numerous food scandals that have marked the last decades. "The vast majority of these raw materials are by-products of the food sector: animals are not bred specifically for cosmetic formulations," explains Gérard Redziniak, master in cosmetology. Collagen, for example, comes from the skin and cartilage of fish.
Advances in biotechnology are gradually making it possible to replace hyaluronic acid in cosmetic formulations.
Advances in biotechnology are gradually making it possible to replace hyaluronic acid (a molecule that is particularly widespread in moisturizing creams because it has the ability to swell with water), extracted from crow's feet 25 years ago. Urea, a powerful soothing agent, can also be artificial.
As for the color pigments, they are mostly mineral or synthetic, but for the red selection, in which cochineal carmine is still used.
The vegetable alternative, often more expensive
For your client, it is difficult to tell the difference between the two.
"Above all, for your client, it is difficult to tell the difference between the two, because many of the basic and very common elements of lotions, such as glycerin, can be obtained from plants or animals. Lactic acid, too, is synthesized in crops, but milk is frequently used".
Since the choice of plants is often expensive. It is often necessary to wait for shocking revelations to acquire the huge moving groups. As in 2012, the disaster of squalane, the oil traditionally obtained from shark liver, which has been replaced by its own plant substitute.
Another obstacle to be eliminated is the indication of the origin of raw materials on labels, which remains non-mandatory. And the problem is becoming increasingly complex with the arrival in Europe of a new wave of Korean make-up: in Asia, the use of tests and substances on animals remains widespread.